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Post by Lucky 13 on Nov 22, 2008 0:49:16 GMT -6
I got my new DerbyWorx RR Tool in the mail this week and I have to say, it is one slick little tool. It is very easy to use and the bend seems to be very consistent from axle to axle. For the guys who like to use bent axles, this is a very good tool to own !!
Lucky 13
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Post by Mr. Slick on Feb 1, 2009 16:53:04 GMT -6
I have to agree that advanced veterans probably don't use all of the derbyWorx tools. I have found the tools to be very helpful when used with the kids building the cars. the only problem I have is the Pro-Body tool being "reamed" out by the kids using the drill. I end up with holes that are too large after a few hundred cars. I know, I should provide a hand tool for the kids to drill with but that would take forever in the workshops. Sure, lots of us adults who are obsessed with the details do tend to use higher grade tools to achieve the same basic principles but these tools are really meant for use with the kids. It is unreal to compare the $8 pro-Body tool with a $400 setup of a drill press with XY tables and a Jewkes Block to keep things aligned. I really like the rail rider tool since it now gives me a way to explain how much people should(could) bend their axles to help with alignment. The noise made when straightening the axles is too loud when done by the kids too! They really love to hammer that poor fixture! The knurled knob on the Pro-Wheel Mandrel is a life saver compared to the other wheel mandrels I have seen. The kids can actually use the tool without needing the fine motor skills to operate a small straight edge screw driver. Once again, I will say that the DerbyWorx tools are fantastic for use by the kids and their parents building cars in the workshops. . . but I don't know how many are use by Pro-Quest Performance type builders for their personal cars. . . .
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Post by Mayhem Miller on Feb 1, 2009 21:34:16 GMT -6
I really with they would update their wheel mandrel though. I wish they would extend the shaft into the inside of the wheel bore with a close tolerance fit, then make the knurled knob end screw shorter. With the shaft running through the wheel bore, I wouldnt have to worry so much about damaging the bore with the rough edges of the threads, and it would also help keep the wheel centered better.
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Post by Lucky 13 on Feb 1, 2009 23:45:29 GMT -6
Hey Lucky 13, I hate to be contradictory, however I haven't found one Derby Worx Tool to be good for anything other than a Paper Weight! Some of them are rather Gimmicky, who needs a Tool to hold a Pipe Cleaner for gosh sakes, just hold it with your fingers. I think they are made to take advantage of the people new to Pinewood Derby Car building. Veteran Builders use better Tools. Just my .02 cents worth! That's your opinion and your entitled to it, just like everyone is !! I'm a "veteran" builder and I still use several of the Derby Worx products with success, including the Pro-Bore Tool, Wheel Mandrel and Rail Rider Tool. I'm not sure how you can get a good bore polishing by hand, but if it works for you, great !! My opinion is that the Rail Rider tool works great, again, my opinion !! I have used it on all of my new builds with fantastic results. I realize there are 2 camps out there on axle bending versus drilling canted holes. I say "whatever works best for you is the way to go". I find the bent axle method very easy to do, so that is what I do. If the canted hole method works best for you, by all means, roll with it !! The Derby Worx line of products helped me and my boys a lot when we got into pinewood derby racing, they are kid friendly, allowing my boys to use them safely and they served their purpose well. Over time we quit using some of them mainly because I'd rather buy a set of Warpspeed/Derby Worx wheels than sit there and turn a set and up until the Pro-Body jig came out, I didn't like how the Pro-Body tool put the axle holes low, but we still use several of the tools to this day and will continue to do so. Lucky 13
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Post by 2fast4u on Feb 1, 2009 23:56:45 GMT -6
I have to agree that advanced veterans probably don't use all of the derbyWorx tools. I have found the tools to be very helpful when used with the kids building the cars. the only problem I have is the Pro-Body tool being "reamed" out by the kids using the drill. I end up with holes that are too large after a few hundred cars. I know, I should provide a hand tool for the kids to drill with but that would take forever in the workshops. Sure, lots of us adults who are obsessed with the details do tend to use higher grade tools to achieve the same basic principles but these tools are really meant for use with the kids. It is unreal to compare the $8 pro-Body tool with a $400 setup of a drill press with XY tables and a Jewkes Block to keep things aligned. I really like the rail rider tool since it now gives me a way to explain how much people should(could) bend their axles to help with alignment. The noise made when straightening the axles is too loud when done by the kids too! They really love to hammer that poor fixture! The knurled knob on the Pro-Wheel Mandrel is a life saver compared to the other wheel mandrels I have seen. The kids can actually use the tool without needing the fine motor skills to operate a small straight edge screw driver. Once again, I will say that the DerbyWorx tools are fantastic for use by the kids and their parents building cars in the workshops. . . but I don't know how many are use by Pro-Quest Performance type builders for their personal cars. . . . Mr slick The Block is the perfect tool to use at work shops... you do not need a $400 drill press... I use a $100.00 Drill press... One Drill press which should be easy to find in a neighborhood and One The Block and your work shop is set up for the alignment and will set the base for the speed of the car... by using The Block at a work shop to help father and son teams build there first cars together, they will have a competitive car and have fun doing it because it makes the alignment the easy part.... The Block can also make some real nice wheels as well. ( video coming soon ) Thank you Glenn
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Post by beakerboysracing on Feb 2, 2009 7:03:41 GMT -6
I own all the above mentioned tools and I can say they all have their Pros and Cons. The pro body jig is great for straight up axles holes and with it clamped to the table, any scout can drill good holes. The Block is great for canted axle holes and for drilling needle holes. You can screw up if you don't get the pin centered right. A pin vise is essential with scouts and the pro body jigs. The wheel shaver is great for wheel prep with restrictive rules that don't allow store bought prepped wheels. And it is easy for the scouts to use. I agree on the wheel mandrel and the length of the screw. It could be shorter. It also works great on RA wheels to shave and shape in the drill press. ;D Look forward to seeing the video on the Block and wheel trueing. Rail rider tool is great for "scout axles", perfect bend everytime, but larger axles it doesn't put enough bend and will leave nasty marks. Axle press is great,again, for "scout axles" and straigtening them. Most of us are using superior axles already in league racing. I have screwed more wheels up than polished with the bore polisher. It's too thick with the pipe cleaner to get it into the bore. Just my 2 cents Scott Beakerboys
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Post by Mr. Slick on Feb 2, 2009 13:45:03 GMT -6
I meant that the entire set-up would be close to $400, not just the drill press. Drill Press micro control X-Y table Block I just don't have the budget for the Block for the workshop but I can get the pro-body tool. It also means that I'm not providing too great of an advantage at the workshops such that not coming to them would mean you have no chance. Do I get a discount if I order a Block and a Blue ESS ?
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Post by 234 on Feb 2, 2009 20:48:17 GMT -6
I have always had the most respect for people who if they did not have anything good to say they just did not say anything at all.
Anyway, I spent some time with the Rail Rider Tool this weekend and I discovered that I could place the Pro Axle Press and the Rail Rider tool in a vise and make the bend using hand pressure. No Hammer Needed! It appears that you can control the bend a little better and it also keeps the axle from being scared by the hammer. Has anyone else tried this technique? Lets get back to something positive!
Leo
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Post by Lucky 13 on Feb 2, 2009 23:58:55 GMT -6
I have always had the most respect for people who if they did not have anything good to say they just did not say anything at all. Anyway, I spent some time with the Rail Rider Tool this weekend and I discovered that I could place the Pro Axle Press and the Rail Rider tool in a vice and make the bend using hand pressure. No Hammer Needed! It appears that you can control the bend a little better and it also keeps the axle from being scared by the hammer. Has anyone else tried this technique? Lets get back to something positive! Leo That sounds like a good idea, I'll have to give it a try !! I've just been using the tool the way the video demonstrates. I did find out if you are using the Derby Worx Pro Axles that the 2.5 degree side puts to big of a bend in the axle because of the larger diameter, but the 1.5 side will give them a perfect cant. With the axle press being designed for the BSA axles, using larger diameter axles in it can be tricky, but can be done. I have actually thought about sending the axle press to my brother and having him machine out a few slots in it for different diameter axles. Lucky 13
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Post by DerbyDoc.com on Feb 3, 2009 0:30:02 GMT -6
I really with they would update their wheel mandrel though. I wish they would extend the shaft into the inside of the wheel bore with a close tolerance fit, then make the knurled knob end screw shorter. With the shaft running through the wheel bore, I wouldnt have to worry so much about damaging the bore with the rough edges of the threads, and it would also help keep the wheel centered better. The threads will not damage the inner bore at all. If youve seen different, then PM me.I would like to hear about the problem. Thanks, Tory
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Post by PWDRacing on Feb 3, 2009 20:08:01 GMT -6
Opinions offered in the spirit of information sharing and education are always welcome here at PWDR. We encourage you to share any speed tip you wish.
Promotion of products by those who have a financial stake in the sale of those products is also welcome, but restricted to this "sell/trade/swap/wanted" thread.
The denigration of competitors and/or their products by those who stand to gain financially by doing so is prohibited. Such conduct is contrary to the guiding principals of this league, good sportsmanship and common courtesy.
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Post by Mayhem Miller on Feb 5, 2009 22:12:43 GMT -6
I realize the threads of the wheel mandrel do not normally cause damage to the wheel bore, but, without it being a smooth surface there is always a chance. I you were to put the screw in at an angle and drag the threads along the hub edge, you bet it could be damaged.
Like I said before, I wish the mandrel would run up and through the bore of the wheel with a very tight tolerance, as it would seem to me that the chance of developing any wobble would be less.
I just got my microlux press and x-y table squared up, and I have to agree with the guys using the block. Yes, I have almost $400 into the entire setup, but its definitely worth the time and trouble trying to align your car.
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