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Post by Deleted on Nov 21, 2012 22:21:54 GMT -6
A few years back, a few of us were running BSA Pure Stock Cars, with BSA axles along with graphite at PWDR. I think Lester and Rich? ran a couple along with me at the time.
Shawn, One Fast Kid: TN Racing has a pretty fast BSA Pure Stocker from his 2011-2012 building. He never got to race it at Council because we walked into the venue, where the race was at, and saw they had a plastic track, no center guide, with a very abrupt stop section.
The car did get to race the winner of a large council and set the track record, outside the race.
We have two options with this car.
Option #1 We want to enter it in Pure Stock for the heck of it and see what it will do. It won't be competitive but should run in the 2.95 or 2.96 if we get a little more out of the car.
We would run on graphite but don't want to mess the track up. We will do oil if needed. Any thoughts?
Option #2 Additionally, we were thinking of putting larger axles in the car at some time. The holes were drilled with #44. Frankly, I have never dealt with a situation like this. This car has close to perfect alignment and might be competitive in Pure Stock with larger axles and a set of killer wheels.
How does one make the hole in the body larger to accommodate 0.091" axle without loosing the great alignment this car now has? I can progressively make the hole larger with pin gages???
Thank you kindly, Murph
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Post by Evolution on Nov 21, 2012 22:32:19 GMT -6
Murph,
These are awesome ideas/options. I will let others give their odeas to the questions as they might have more experience with this then me.
Sky and I have either dealt with BSA axles or league racing style axles and there is no comparing them. Given the chance I would always start with pro style axles as they are earier to polish, prepare, and race then BSA axles. While I now produce my own line of axles, I have used axles from other vendors and BSA axles. The one thing common to all of them is that polishing them to perfection is the key. Some axles are easier to polish and perfect then others.
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Post by B.S.B. Racing on Nov 22, 2012 5:42:35 GMT -6
Are you only talking about a few thousandths? If so put a gradual chamfer on your gage pin. Gently tap it in to the wood working your way up a thousandth at a time till you have a nice fit for your axle. With gradual chamfer it will give the pin a lead in, and if done correctly will not alter your alignment. If it's still a little too tight, chuck up your final gage pin in your cordless drill while you have the pin engaged in the body and run the drill at a pretty slow speed. Move the pin in and out, but not out of the body. I have done this when I have one and the DFW is a little to tight to tune easily. If you don't have gage pins, you can use the back end of the proper size drill if it will achieve what you are looking for. The back end of a drill is usually .001 to .002 smaller than it's advertised size. BTW.........gage pins make excellent axles with NO POLISHING INVOLVED. The finish on a gage pin is far superior to any axle polishing process out there and the pin is PERFECTLY ROUND! A WIN/WIN SITUATION!!
How does one make the hole in the body larger to accommodate 0.091" axle without loosing the great alignment this car now has? I can progressively make the hole larger with pin gages???
Thank you kindly, Murph[/quote]
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Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2012 11:17:06 GMT -6
Your the best B!
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Post by B.S.B. Racing on Dec 8, 2012 19:34:34 GMT -6
Are you only talking about a few thousandths? If so put a gradual chamfer on your gage pin. Gently tap it in to the wood working your way up a thousandth at a time till you have a nice fit for your axle. With gradual chamfer it will give the pin a lead in, and if done correctly will not alter your alignment. If it's still a little too tight, chuck up your final gage pin in your cordless drill while you have the pin engaged in the body and run the drill at a pretty slow speed. Move the pin in and out, but not out of the body. I have done this when I have one and the DFW is a little to tight to tune easily. If you don't have gage pins, you can use the back end of the proper size drill if it will achieve what you are looking for. The back end of a drill is usually .001 to .002 smaller than it's advertised size. BTW.........gage pins make excellent axles with NO POLISHING INVOLVED. The finish on a gage pin is far superior to any axle polishing process out there and the pin is PERFECTLY ROUND! A WIN/WIN SITUATION!! How does one make the hole in the body larger to accommodate 0.091" axle without loosing the great alignment this car now has? I can progressively make the hole larger with pin gages??? Thank you kindly, Murph It might not be exactly how SW's video explained it, but it's the same principle. And yes M, you are getting old!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2012 19:42:17 GMT -6
B, Got it! The light just went on! Murph
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