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Post by Mr. Slick on Nov 20, 2013 21:26:03 GMT -6
Here are the Northern Star Council rules for 2014. I'm looking for any feedback and would also like to share what has become a popular set of rules. These have been adopted by several councils and other groups. They have been developed over the years to be fully implemented at inspection time with minimal fuss and tools. Some of the thoughts that were followed:- Allow things that youth can do with simple tools like the Derby Worx ones at the BSA Scout stores.
- Allow the use of aftermarket parts where the cost is reasonably within the reach of most Cub Scouts.
- No post race tear down inspections as this would damage cars after a pack race or a district race.
- The YOUTH advances to the Council race, not the car.
- No impounding of cars after earlier races due to logistics and fairness to all.
- Level the playing field as much as possible with the use of precise statements.
- Mentions the use of OILS and other hints that would be helpful.
- Do Not outlaw things that can not be inspected for and enforced.
- BSA Nail TYPE Axles since full inspection of the axle would ruin the alignment.
Attached is the PDF version. 2014_PWD_Rules.pdf (129.03 KB) If anyone would like a MS-Word version, send me an e-mail at PwdRacing@Yahoo.com
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Post by twistediron on Nov 21, 2013 10:04:19 GMT -6
Nice changes !!
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Post by LightninBoy on Jan 13, 2014 22:14:20 GMT -6
I often wondered if "type" in "BSA nail type axle" was intentional in these rules. I personally find that wording confusing. If the intent is to allow any nail axle then the BSA word is redundant. If the intent is to use only BSA axles then why use the word "type"? So I've interpreted this as allowing any axle that is similar to the BSA axle ... zinc, appox .087 diameter etc., but disallowing the fancier stainless steel .093 diameter axles used in the pro leagues.
Is that not right?
Oh and btw ... these are a great set of rules. I read horror stories from around the nation about people dealing with overly strict unenforceable rules.
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Post by CycRunner on Jan 21, 2014 1:08:39 GMT -6
I interpret BSA "type" to include the .093 you refer too. The word type to me means it does not include the one piece rods that go all the way across the body. Anyone agree with this?
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Post by twistediron on Jan 21, 2014 7:30:40 GMT -6
Yep thats exactly how I take it
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Post by LightninBoy on Jan 21, 2014 15:32:52 GMT -6
I interpret BSA "type" to include the .093 you refer too. The word type to me means it does not include the one piece rods that go all the way across the body. Anyone agree with this? Hmm. I think that's a reasonable interpretation. But then the rule could just be "Nail type axles are required" which is the language used in the PWDR racing league. If that is truly the intent then my feedback on the rules is to remove the BSA word and go with "Nail type axles are required ... " and then give some examples: BSA axles, Awana Axles, etc. Otherwise, if we race with aftermarket axles which are clearly different (e.g. nail head color and shape) I can see a District check in judge saying that the rules clearly state that BSA axles are required and disqualify the car.
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Post by Mr. Slick on Jan 22, 2014 15:10:10 GMT -6
Correct, it is intended to allow aftermarket axles that are NOT solid one piece axles.
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Post by LightninBoy on Jan 22, 2014 22:46:45 GMT -6
Well that is exciting. Thanks for the clarification!!
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Post by notsofast on Apr 7, 2014 11:49:23 GMT -6
I've wondered about axle diameter. The rules say no less than .084" diameter but it seems that every nail we get in our kits is already smaller than that. I mean, they are round near the point then get oblong as you get up to the head. Every one I have here is between .082 and .091 in the area where the wheel rides. It just depends if you're measuring the high side or the low side as you spin it.
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Post by Mr. Slick on Apr 7, 2014 12:03:06 GMT -6
Yeah, the quality of the axles this year is disappointing.
The intent of the diameter limit is to eliminate racing with needle axles which would be an extreme advantage.
The problem is that in the Physics of Pinewood Derby there is a plan on how to create cheater axles that look legal but are actually needles on the part that the wheel runs on.
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Post by notsofast on Apr 7, 2014 16:28:23 GMT -6
we're running stock axles that we file then polish. Because we have to bend 3 of our axles is there an advantage to the aftermarket ones if not drilling with The Block? Maybe a question for another section. Anyways, I think the rules are specific enough to keep things close yet allow some room for mods. We're truing our wheels with a sanding block against the drill press. That's fine as long as we don't go below stated diameter and the surface remains flat?
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Post by Mr. Slick on Apr 9, 2014 10:29:01 GMT -6
Yes, the minimum diameter of 1.160 still leaves some of the little ridges on the outside edge.
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Post by LightninBoy on Apr 9, 2014 16:51:25 GMT -6
we're running stock axles that we file then polish. Because we have to bend 3 of our axles is there an advantage to the aftermarket ones if not drilling with The Block? Yes, there are several advantages to using aftermarket axles - even if you are bending them. * Heads are tapered evenly * Thicker diameter (less wheel slop) * Axles are round * Polish up easier, don't need to file * Grooved axles available However, if you get the stainless steel axles then you need to think a bit about how you will bend them. They are extremely hard and the old hammer+rail riding tool won't give you accurate bends (in my experience). I bend mine by squeezing the rile riding tool in a bench vice.
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Post by Mr. Slick on Apr 11, 2014 10:13:42 GMT -6
You might want to test out the most recent version of the PwdRacing axle bender that we have at the shop.
Adjustable and able to bend even the stainless axles.
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