|
Post by opaulo on Feb 13, 2013 19:01:40 GMT -6
So, this is the question and answer section eh? ;D
I'm beginning to get a grasp but still have a lot of reading to do. Right now I'm focusing on cub scout car and pure stock. Cub scout car might get the axles twisted a bit but it's done.
Most every aspect of building these cars I do understand but some of it is still black magic to me.
1st question. I'm guessing the advantage gained from using camber to have the wheels contact the track on just a corner out weighs the fact that the axle goes through the bore totally crooked??
2nd question. If you cannot touch the BSA wheel other than some light sanding (no machining) on the tread and only polish the bore (no removing double step or messing with the other side), is it still advantageous to run camber??
3rd question. Is a tighter tolerance between the bore and the axle faster or is slop wobbly faster?? I keep seeing minimum axle diameter so that leads me to believe a smaller axle with more play to the hub is faster. Anyone ever tried shrinking the hub diameter with a roll tap to tighten the tolerance?
4th question. How in the heck is 3 crooked wheels faster than 4 perfectly aligned one's!?!? VOODOO I TELL YA!!
Paul
|
|
|
Post by Resophonic Racing on Feb 13, 2013 20:56:51 GMT -6
1) Yes
2) Yes
3) Search for the guy who refers to himself in 3rd person, he has a process for shrinking bores.
4) Reduced friction + 3 wheel mojo = faster car
|
|
|
Post by Mr. Slick on Feb 13, 2013 23:01:40 GMT -6
The minimum axle diameter is to prevent people from running needle axles in those divisions. large variance ... slop .... wobbly ==> SLOW
|
|
|
Post by minions on Feb 13, 2013 23:44:09 GMT -6
This what I've learned:
1) one of the main reasons of running the back two cambered is to keep the wheels out towards the axle head, away from the car body, and away from rail.
2) yes
3) as others have said, large gap leads to more wheel wobble which means slower.
4) there is no such thing as 4 perfectly aligned wheels or a perfectly straight track, the car will always drift back and forth losing speed. Best is to have the FDW (front wheel that is touching) steer to the rail and use the rail as a guide down the track.
|
|
|
Post by boogityboogity on Feb 14, 2013 12:04:52 GMT -6
Adjusting the wheels to camber would allow you to ride on the edges of the wheels which can benefit by less wheel touch the track giving you far less friction and less fiction can equal more speed.
|
|
|
Post by opaulo on Feb 15, 2013 6:16:33 GMT -6
Thanks a million for the reply's everybody. It's beginning to make sense. What's the popular method to induce camber? Drill it into the body or just bend the axle? Either way it looks like there would still be some tuning going on to tweak the alignment.
|
|
|
Post by ZZ Racing on Feb 15, 2013 8:29:30 GMT -6
If you drill the rear axle holes with the silver bullet at 3 degrees cant you will be much better than bending axles. I have run bent axles for sometime now and if you haven't done this it will cause more problems.
|
|
BigDaddy
Oil, Oil, Oil
Big Daddy Racing, Wide Open 24-7
Posts: 61
|
Post by BigDaddy on Feb 15, 2013 8:36:32 GMT -6
I really think it depends on what you are going to use to drill your axle holes. If you are using the Pro Body Jig, you will bend three axles and if you drill your axle holes with one of the other tools you drill the rear cant into the body and bend the axle for the DFW. Both are good methods and you are correct, either way you are tuning....
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2013 17:52:39 GMT -6
Resp, I am not directly referring to myself in the post around using pin gages. "Third person" is sometimes used in different venues to "paint a picture" of a process. The information is free for the taking. Thanks! Murph
|
|
|
Post by opaulo on Feb 15, 2013 19:22:08 GMT -6
If you drill the rear axle holes with the silver bullet at 3 degrees cant you will be much better than bending axles. I have run bent axles for sometime now and if you haven't done this it will cause more problems. Yeah it seems like tweaking 3 axles could get away from a beginner pretty quick. I'll start with 1. I like the idea of drilling the camber into the chassis and using straight axles. That silver bullet is a nice piece. Thanks for the info everybody!!
|
|
|
Post by Resophonic Racing on Feb 16, 2013 7:31:09 GMT -6
Resp, I am not directly referring to myself in the post around using pin gages. "Third person" is sometimes used in different venues to "paint a picture" of a process. The information is free for the taking. Thanks! Murph Sorry Murph, I thought the third person reference was kinda your trade mark. I've always found it amusing in the past when you posted under the name murph. Here are some examples of past post that gave me the impression you used third person more: Hi Evo, Will you stick to the National Championship date that is posted? Murph will try to get some little cars over there. Murph Pending any disastors, Murph found his dream job.  Headed back to Wisconsin. Southern part of state. Track is going up right now and will have cars running down track shortly. Murph is in with focus on finding a new stocker with speed. How many times has Murph retired from PWDR Racing? Murph will be bringing some cars along! Zack, Murph can get you going. I will send you PM with my phone # and email address. Murph SLT
|
|
|
Post by opaulo on Feb 16, 2013 21:29:20 GMT -6
Hey Murph! You still in southern WI? Got some family around Janesville, Dodgeville. I'm up there all the time.
|
|
|
Post by laserman on May 11, 2013 11:50:40 GMT -6
So how does one go about shrinking the wheel Bore for scout racing? Would it be possible to coat the inside of the wheel bore with CA glue and then ream it out to desired diameter? Would that be considered a bushing?
|
|