I have lots of 93 inch long aluminum track sections witch can be either straight or curved sections.
One curved section is needed for a full test track. With one curved piece and two straight pieces you have almost 24 feet of test track. (3x93"= 23' 3")
The curve/transition can be one of 3 types. Real gentle like the How-to-Book design, slight like the Challenger plans and the final option is like the league's BestTrack. If you want to make your own track we can provide the information needed to build it.
$100 for a 3 section track (plus shipping) $150 for a 4 location timer system. $20 for the instructions on how to build your own from scratch.
My idea is to "part out" the old track. It is an 8 section 6 lane track. The plating is from the BSA Store made by BetaCrafts.
I am planning on keeping the 6 lane FastTrack Timer from Microwizard as a backup for the new track. . . you never know when you are going to have your first problem in 13 years!
The frame on the track is heavy and would be very expensive to ship. It has 3 inch side walls that are 7 layer plywood for the sides with cross braces that are T shaped. A full size adult can carry a single piece but two pieces are too heavy. If some one *really* wants a full track that is old and has dents in the outer lanes It could be done but I would recommend against it. . . sure would make life easier for me though.
The new track is even heavier! Two person carry is much easier with it since it is 4" instead fo 3" sides and has a full masonite top.
All of the track sections have a simple frame with them. There should be a minimum of "assembly needed".
The frame for the 6 lane track is the heavy beast that I am afraid of shipping. The single lane tracks seem to be small enough and light enough that I should be able to get them shipped without too much of a problem. We'll see soon!.
Happy days! The rods to make new pins arrived this weekend. Now all I need are some of the 1/4x20 nut thingys. The process continues!
As to how to turn a straight/flat piece into a curved piece all I do is attach it to a curved wooden frame. The plating is flexible enough to make nice transitions in the middle of the sections. Just don't have a joint in the curve and it should be fine.
Last Edit: Apr 21, 2008 7:00:32 GMT -6 by Mr. Slick
Well, with the warping of the singe wood frame I have switched to an aluminum support system. I have proto typed a few and am assembling the sections for the initial order. . . just need to finish the new method for the transition and will be shipping it out!!!!
This has supports/levelers built in!
I'm proud of the leveling parts - after several versions I have come up with some that are quick to adjust and should last forever. They use a straight slot screw driver to adjust the height on each side of the track, once set you use a wing nut to secure in the setting.
I even have a version that can bolt onto the bottom of the BestTrack sections. . .
Once this track gets done and sent I'll still have lots of track pieces left if anyone else is interested. . . . I'll get to see what the shipping costs are too. . .
These are spaced about every 2 feet just in case the track has to support 2 pound Big Rig semis! ;D There is an aluminum C channel adhered with some fancy adhesive and also bolted every foot to the bottom of the track that provides the actual rigidity and support.
Only the curve section to finish retrofitting to metal frames.
Track update - - - one ordered long ago and almost finished. I am resorting to a wood frame for the curved part but the rest is an aluminum support system with levelers. I hope to have it all together for Saturday show and tell!